|No matter how meticulous you are about routine maintenance and tune ups, every carburetor needs to be rebuilt from time to time, if for no other reason than to clean fuel residue and debris out of the internal passages. Rebuilding the carburetor also gives you the opportunity to closely examine its components and look for signs of excessive wear and tear.Most parts in the carburetor are designed to last for the life of the carburetor (which should last for the life of the engine, or longer), but there are a few wear-out items that should be replaced occasionally. Those parts are primarily rubber (or rubber-like) diaphragms and valves, which can deteriorate with age and continuous exposure to the volatile chemicals in fuel.
Fortunately, the Motorcraft 2150 is one of the easiest carburetors to work on. Even if you’ve never rebuilt a carburetor before, chances are you’ll be able to rebuild your Motorcraft 2150 carburetor without any problems.
This section describes how to rebuild a Motorcraft 2150 2V carburetor using a standard rebuild kit available from any auto parts store. Rebuilding the carburetor includes the following procedures:
- Removing the carburetor from the engine
- Disassembling and inspecting the carburetor
- Cleaning the carburetor components
- Re-assembly with rebuild kit parts
- Adjusting the choke linkage and float level
- Re-installing the carburetor on the engine
- Adjusting the idle mixture and idle speed
Carburetor rebuild kits
You can get carburetor rebuild kits at almost any automotive parts store, including all the major chain stores.
|NOTE: Most stores will not let you return any carburetor rebuild kit for a refund if the shrink-wrapped box that contains the parts is opened. Check the rebuild kit in the store before you buy it to make sure that the parts box is sealed, and do not break the seal until you are ready to start using the parts to re-assemble the carburetor.
Rebuild kits typically include all the parts you need to rebuild and overhaul the carburetor, including:
|Above: Typical contents of 2150 rebuild kit.
- Fuel inlet valve needle/seat and splash shield
- Accelerator pump diaphragm, elastomer bowl valve, and check valve ball
- Power valve
- Assorted gaskets, seals, and spacers
- Tamper-proof choke cap screws and limiting caps for idle mixture screws (some kits)
- Instruction sheet with exploded view parts diagram and list of settings for choke adjustment and float level
Each carburetor rebuild kit is designed to be used with several different versions (or calibrations) of the carburetor. Some kits include two different versions of certain gaskets and other components to fit different versions of the carburetor. To maintain the original carburetor’s performance characteristics, the most important part in the rebuild kit is the power valve.
Because there are so many minor variations of the Motorcraft 2150 carburetor, and so many different calibrations of each particular variant, you really need to have the carburetor ID code (found on the carburetor tag) to make sure you get the correct kit for your carburetor.
Carburetor ID tags
|Above: Carburetor ID tag on Motorcraft 2150.
The carburetor ID tag is a small piece of sheet aluminum stamped with the carburetor ID code and the carburetor’s build date. The carburetor ID tag is usually attached to the carburetor by the front left screw on the carburetor top.
Carburetor ID codes are Ford part numbers, without the main part identification number (9510). Carburetor ID codes have a four-character prefix that identifies the application (for example, D8TE — 1978 truck) and a two- or three-character suffix that identifies the calibration (for example, BAA).
Refer to this page if you are not familiar with Ford part numbers and ID codes.
If you don’t have the original metal tag on your carburetor, you have two options to get the correct kit for your carburetor:
- Find another vehicle exactly like yours — same year, model, engine, transmission, optional accessories, emissions system, etc. — and record the carburetor ID code from the carburetor ID tag on that vehicle. (The ideal would be to find a vehicle with the same engine calibration code as yours.)
- As a last resort, you can use a rebuild kit manufacturer’s catalog to find your vehicle and engine application. This really is a last resort, though, because there were usually several different calibrations for a particular vehicle-engine-transmission combination, and the parts catalogs rarely give enough information to determine exactly which kit should be used.
You might be able to correlate some information from a rebuild kit catalog with the M-block carburetor application tables on this page . These tables cover most 1971 to 1982 car and truck applications, though truck applications are listed in more detail.
Advice for the novice
Don’t be intimidated by the idea of rebuilding a carburetor. The first time my girlfriend (now my wife) saw me rebuild my Motortcraft 2150 in the kitchen of her apartment, she referred to it as “open-heart surgery,” but it’s really not that difficult.
If you’ve ever built scale model kits of airplanes or cars, you’ll find rebuilding a Motorcraft 2150 carburetor to be a piece of cake. If you have the aptitude (and patience) for dealing with small parts, the ability to understand an exploded view drawing, and a sense of adventure, you can do it.
If you’ve never rebuilt a carburetor before, you should allocate a minimum of three days to do it. You’ll spend most of that time waiting for parts to soak in cleaning solvents, so it’s not like three days of continuous work. A long holiday weekend is just fine.
Make sure you have a clean place to work, with at least 8-10 square feet of flat, horizontal work surface. A dining table works fine. I like to use a clean terrycloth towel on the work bench to catch any little parts that drop, so they don’t fall on the floor or bounce off into oblivion. A light-colored towel makes it easier to see those little parts.
You’ll also need an area with good ventilation to work with the cleaning solvents. Carburetor cleaners are chock full of volatile organic compounds, and they are both flammable and highly toxic. I recommend working with the cleaning solvents outdoors, if at all possible. (Not in your girlfriend’s kitchen!)